In Depth: the Short Cactus Work Jacket

Occasionally, Nigel Cabourn will develop a quirky item with its own story from outside the main collection.
This time, one of them is a hip-length short cactus jacket in the shape of a classic work jacket dressed in a cactus pattern. The main inspiration for this season is the heyday of British motor racing, with this exceptional jacket based on Nigel Cabourn 's original design from the 1980s.

The definition of "second-hand clothes" was far from what we know today, with the exception of a few niche subcultures, but since then Nigel 's design process has been heavily informed by the past, making it the way it is today. In addition, many of his works in the 1980s were modern remakes of clothes that he picked up in various places and reconstructed them according to the times.

The original Cactus jacket is inspired by early 20th century American mining work jackets. American work jackets were easy to wear and durable, similar to the design of work coats worn by French craftsmen called "Bleu de Travaille" of the same period. The buttons were large, the pockets were generous, and the tough fabric could withstand the rigors of work. The fact that you can still buy vintage jackets from nearly a century ago (which are quite expensive) shows just how sturdy these garments are.

The first Cactus Jacket was not just a simple reproduction, it combined classic work jackets with comic book patterns from the 19th century Wild West, instantly remaking a relic of the past into something fresh. The new Cactus Jacket continues this tradition, replacing the original wool fabric with denim fabric while retaining the classic shape and pattern.

And the cactus pattern is not printed on the denim fabric, but is woven into the fabric itself using a jacquard loom in a Japanese factory. Established in the 1920s, this small factory began producing denim in 1965. Since then, it has become one of the leading denim factories in Japan, well versed in the field of vintage looms and traditional dyeing techniques.

From the customized Toyota looms of the 1920s to the jacquard looms that helped make this season's cactus jacket, these historic machines weave more slowly than modern machines, so the fabric is a little less bulky than mass-produced fabrics. Provides a soft, relaxing feel.

The fabric is made in Japan, but the jacket itself is made at Mackintosh's factory in Lancashire, England. In addition to the eponymous raincoat, the company also regularly Nigel Cabourn jackets, and has recently collaborated with Liam Gallagher on smocks and photographer jackets, as well as this season's Namcoat. increase. The attention to detail at this factory is second to none. Nigel and his design team work closely with them to ensure even the smallest details, from pen pocket stitching to custom buttons.

This is a rare example of a remake that matches (or even surpasses) the power of the original. The shape has been tweaked a bit and the fabric has changed, but the main elements remain the same. Made in England, Nigel Cabourn masterpiece jacket.